Log in or Sign up. Joined: Sep 17, Location: Ames, Iowa. I am installing a Sterling Accord shower in my basement and will be using an Oatey no caulk brass shower drain. This is my first shower install, so I'm trying to figure at what height to cut the 2" PVC drain pipe. I will be putting mortar piles under the shower base as described in one of Terry's posts so I'm thinking of leaving the the PVC pipe a little high and then squishing the base down until the top of the PVC pipe is about at the correct height in relation to the brass drain body.
My question is how exact do I need to get the height of the PVC drain pipe? I'm not sure if I'm making sense here, so I'll ask another way: will the compression nut push the rubber gasket further down the PVC pipe until it seats on the bottom of the brass drain body -or- will the rubber gasket compress around the PVC pipe and stay in place by friction? Any advice is appreciated. DJLJan 29, The rubber compression ring is squeezed around the pipe tightly.
Don't forget to put a rag or something down in the drain to prevent the tool from falling into it while tightening the compression ring. The 2" can even be a little higher than the compression ring. The mortar shouldn't be lifting up the pan. It's mainly if you have an out of level floor. It does make it more solid though. TerryJan 29, No thread lock on the nuts.Somine e sabba gli autori
Silicone is rather permanent. The reason most drains are replaced is leaking. I don't think it will leak with Silicone. Thank you, Terry.Log in or Sign up. Joined: Jan 30, Location: PA. Sorry if this has been posted before but I couldn't find my exact question after 30 minutes of searching. About me for some perspective of my questions. I do not shy away from DIY work, though plumbing is not my strong point.
Just something about potential and usually immediate water damage that worries me. My issue is that I have an acrylic shower base in a custom tiled shower on the 2nd floor that was installed about years ago.
The other day I noticed water on the ceiling of my 1st floor just under the shower. I really didn't know what I was looking at until I found your forums and have learned quite a bit. The compression nut was very loose and came off with my fingers. I am certain that is what was causing the leak, so on to fixing or replacing the drain.
Given the relative "young" age of my shower I'm tempted to simply get a new gasket for the drain pipe and compress it down as instructed. As in I could grab the pipe using just the pressure of my fingers on the inner walls of the pipe, it moves up and down extremely easily. We are talking easily 2" of play 1" up, 1" down. This concerned me to the point that I imagined the pipe falling into the floor if the old gasket were removed forcing me to cut into the downstairs ceiling.
So the questions really are this: 1- Should the drain pipe have this type of "play"?
My gut tells me no but hey, I have never installed a shower before. I don't want to stress the pipe pulling it up or leave it too low. Some key points I've seen asked in other posts so I'll pre-empt what I can: -I currently have NO access from below the shower. In order to do that I'd need to cut away drywall and I really hate installing drywall.
Fun as anything to smash through and demo but I am not a spakle and tape person especially on a ceiling. This is being done both as cleanup mildew, etc and to make sure none of those seams were the cause of the leak. Any help you can provide would be most appreciated. My wife loves our shower and the more days she's without it the more days I'm in the dog house.
Thanks, -Kirk. TheCaptainJan 30, Location: Land of Cheese.
The top of the pipe should be flush with the top of the seal. Pulling it up higher only creates a place for goo to build up. Your description of the looseness gives me a little cause for concern.
I hope the trap is cemented and not threaded. I would replace the gasket, tighten the compression ring down good and leak test it. Thanks for the feedback. I did as you said but pulled the pipe up a little above the gasket. Once I tightned the compression ring there wasn't a visible gap that I could see as an area of potential buildup. A quick leak test showed the drain was sound and no longer leaking. The real test will come after my new caulk dries around the shower door and we can run a full shower through.
I may end up doing as some on here have suggested, adding a slight amount of silicone around the drain pipe and compression gasket to help prevent water from seeping there and also to help direct it down the drain. TheCaptainJan 31, To use the WingTite drain, you have to remove the old one and while it can be done through the shower drain opening, it is a time consuming, tedious job.Log in or Sign up.
Joined: Nov 3, Location: Seattle Washington. Hello everyone. I'm installing a no caulk shower drain for the first time and I'm looking for instructions on how to do it correctly. The one that I am replacing is leaking somewhere and is causing serious damage to the room downstairs. I know that I already have to replace the damaged drywall below so gaining access underneath is not an issue.
Also, when looking at the drain line it doesn't seem to be supported well enough around the bottom of the stall one-piece fiberglass and right now it seems to me that the weight of someone using it in the future will cause this to happen again. Do I use ABS glue in fitting the new drain to the drain line? Should I strap the line? Any ideas? Thanks bunches, JerryM. JerryMNov 3, The same rule applies to PVC solvent Your drain fitting should have directions for installation enclosed.
The shower stall rests all of its weight on the floor, usually with mortar spotted beneath to prevent sagging or flexing under heavy weight, and is nailed or screwed to the studs at the top and down the edges to keep it from shifting. The drain does not support any weight. The pipe needs to be cut to the correct height as will be indicated in the drain fitting instructions.
Follow the instructions carefully and you shouldn't have a problem. Gary SwartNov 4, Joined: Feb 6, Occupation: Sensitivity trainer. Remember -if you dont squeeze out most of the putty it will not tighten down properly and the flange will loosen up over time normally this is done on the rough inn with a large 24 inch Rigid wrench which you cant use in this situatioin In a few of my more mean situations, I opted to use clear water proof silicone instead of putty on the lip of that flange Just clean it up with your finger on both the top and bottom Last edited: Nov 4, Master Plumber MarkNov 4, Joined: Mar 29, Did not come with installation instructions.
It comes with wrench included. After installation should the wrench be removed? If so, how? Should silicone be used to seal? ToddtschMar 29, Joined: Jul 12, Ideal for slab construction. Available with 4.
Compression gasket tightens around 2" schedule 40 DWV pipe with caulking nut and wrench. We are unable to ship to certain locations due to restrictions. If you have any questions, please reach out to customer service. Below is a breakdown of the abbreviated locations.
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Hello, I have an acrylic shower pan that I'm using with an Oatey "no caulk" shower drain.University of maryland class of 2023 profile
I installed it as advised by the instructions, but it's leaking between the top flange and the shower base. Surprisingly, the "no caulk" rubber gasket is holding up just fine. In other words, the silicone joint is leaking. I am on a concrete slab, so there is no access underneath, and so it would seem I need to tear out the shower pan, remove the drain, and try again.
I am hesitant to use silicone sealant the second time around, though. This pictures shows how the inner part of the drain is holding water, while the outside flange area is not. Note that I did apply silicone underneath the flange, and wiped away any and all excess you can see it slightly.
We install them all the time with Silicone. Silicone under the flange, drop into the shower pan, rubber washer under the pan, then the friction washer, thread on the nut and tighten. Last edited: Feb 11, TerryFeb 11, Joined: Jan 6, Location: Alabama.
I will not use a plastic drain,only the brass ones. Just my choice. Replacement drains are sold that install from the top. Did the instructions suggest or require a mortar base for the pan to be set into? Last edited by a moderator: Feb 12, Hackney plumbingFeb 12, I used the Oatey plastic drain, and yes, I did put lots of mortar underneath. The base is very solid.The drain body is sealed to the shower base with a fiber and rubber washer.
Shower Drain Installation Rivoe. Sometimes drains need to be replaced due to rust or because the rubber gasket erodes over time.
This product does not comply with the "Safe Drinking Water Act," which requires that products meet low-lead standards in order to be used in systems providing water for humanShower drains should be matched to the shower base and the drain pipe type. Designed for use on built up Shower bases of tile or marble, where a Shower pan liner is used. Skip to the end of the images gallery. Clean stainless steel floor drain installation site to prevent debris into the floor drain, the installation is complete.
Here you will find a short explanation about how-to install a linear shower drain.
Oatey 42075 2" 101 PNC Series PVC No-Calk Shower Drain w/ Plastic Strainer - Pkg Qty 12
Replacement shower drain covers for Casper, Oatey, Sioux Chief, and many other brands. Their special design includes an adjustable barrel, which allows you to adjust the height of the drain and ensure it matches the height of the shower floor. The Oatey drain company produces shower drains designed for installation in tiled shower floors to allow for stability and safety during installation. Apply the PVC prep and let it rest for 20 seconds before applying the PVC cement on the current plumbing and the new shower drain.
Strainer is designed to be used with preformed shower-stall bases. Proper drain installation is critical for creating a leak-free shower basin. The low profile design allows for installation in tight spaces.
Learn how to install the ShowerLine linear drain system when using liquid waterproofing in this short video.
Oatey Pvc No Caulk Shower Drain Installation Instructions
This video takes you through the step by step process of installing an Oatey shower pan liner. Cut a 4. I installed it as advised by the instructions, but it's leaking between the top flange and the shower base. Drain top accommodates 4- Universal SnapTite Strainers.
Please practice hand-washing and social distancing, and check out our resources for adapting to these times. Feature: Floor Drains. Solvent welds over 2 in. On the underside of the shower, install the rubber washer, then the fiber washer over the threaded part of the drain body.Proper drain installation will do no good in a shower where the drywall or subfloor are not installed correctly.
Check you properly install the entire shower enclosure before adding the drain.React lazy not working
Wear safety glasses and a dust mask when cutting the subfloor to guard against shrapnel and dust. Cement is extremely caustic and can cause serious burns to exposed skin. Wear protective goggles and gloves, and wash off any cement from your skin immediately. The Oatey drain company produces shower drains designed for installation in tiled shower floors to allow for stability and safety during installation.
You can install these drains in either plywood or concrete subfloors, which are two of the most common materials used to create subfloors in shower installations. The Oatey drain system features an adjustable drain barrel that allows the installer to change the height of the drain to match the height of the tile floor.
Proper installation and sealing of the shower drain is the only way to prevent leaking and ensure a safe and clean shower environment. Cut the hole so that its center sits above the drainpipe under the shower floor. If you are unsure of the location of the pipe, contact the shower installer or a plumber. Disassemble the drain.
Oatey No Caulk Shower Drain Instructions
It comes apart in four pieces: the drain base, the clamping ring, the drain barrel and the strainer. The base and ring are held together with bolts; use a wrench to disassemble the drain completely.Drop user redshift
Set the drain base in the hole you cut so that the wider top part sits on the subfloor and the bottom touches the drainpipe. Adhere the pipe to the base with solvent cement provided by Oatey with your installation kit. The solvent cement seals the base to the pipe to prevent leaking when the drain is in use. Mix Portland cement and water together until it forms a thick paste similar to peanut butter. Cover the opening over the drain base with masking tape so that it you completely seal it.
Spread a thin, even layer of the cement mixture over the subfloor surface with a flat-bladed trowel. Spread the cement right up to the edge of the drain base but not over the hole. Allow the cement to dry for 24 hours before continuing. Measure and cut the shower pan liner to fit around your drain and in your shower.DIY Oatey #42045 shower drain install
Lay the liner in the shower and trace out the lines along which you need to cut to make it fit in the shower. The liner should run 2 inches up the wall on all sides. Do not cut away the section over the drain itself. Cut the liner to fit following the liner's instructions; different pan liner manufacturers have different requirements.
Remove the tape from over the drain base. Spread a bead of silicone caulk along the top of the drain base, 1 inch from the edge. Install the bolts so that two to three of the threads are hidden beneath the drain base. This will leave a significant amount of space between the base piece and bolts, which is the goal.
Lay the pan liner over the entire shower floor. Use a sharp utility knife to cut small "X" shapes over the locations of the bolts, so that when you push down, the bolts poke through the pan liner.
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