Yoshifab turbo

Yoshifab turbo

Yoshifab supplies an adhesive to seal and secure the fitting.

yoshifab turbo

The top of the fitting is threaded for a standard AN racing hose fitting that you can buy anywhere. Non-turbo engines do not have this existing hole for the oil drain. PTFE hose is designed for hot, high-pressure oil and has high temperature rating of degrees Fahrenheit. You can choose whatever AN hose you prefer.

PTFE hose is rated for higher temps, but is not as flexible as a rubber core hose, such as Aeroquip Socketless that's discuss further below. Now I have piece of mind that if something is going to break, it will not be that drain hose. If you need something more flexible, have a look at the Aeroquip Socketless push-on below. Yoshifab will tell you they prefer using Aeroquip Socketless hose pictured at left. That's a rubber core hose that uses special barbed hose fittings. Assembly is much faster and easier and routing them is easier because they're more flexible.

Aeroquip Socketless hose is rated at degrees Fahrenheit.

Welcome to Yoshifab

The lower part of the pipe was designed to seal into the hole in the block. Despite having a rubber o-ring on the pipe, these tubes usually leaked at the block. If you fit a different turbo like I did, you'll probably find the rigid pipe no longer works. I was using a cobbled together pipe for years.

I'm happy to report that Yoshifab has brought the red block drain pipe into the 21st century by introducing a new custom hose fitting that fits into the existing hole in the block and allows you to use modern racing hose and fittings for a much better drain system. The pipe I made was functional, but I didn't trust the soft hose there in the middle due to the extreme heat it was subjected to even though it was reinforced silicone construction.

Silicone hose is not designed for such heat and I just knew it would eventually fail again. This fitting is designed to fit precisely into the existing Volvo block drain hole. Here's a video on this procedure. You could certainly drill a hole.

The size of that hole is not known to me. Anyone know?

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Yes, it's that simple! One of these goes into the above hose end fitting. The ferrule is designed to get crushed against the hose liner during assembly and the old ferrule is NOT reuseable.

Replacement tube ferrules are available. The AN fittings above use. Assembling PTFE hose ends is not difficult, but you'll need some guidance if it's your first time. And a good video HERE.We have worked with Arias pistons to develop a few piston options that take care of the most popular performance applications we come across with bs.

Our pistons come in two versions, turbo and non turbo. All of our pistons are notched for 16v valve clearances so that they work with both 8v and 16v setups. Arias forges these pistons from Aluminum and machines them to our specs.

All of our forged pistons setups require a mm rod and are for a If you are building a NA motor and need a 97mm bore please request that in the notes when ordering. To order select your stroke stock 2. If you have a specific requirement for your pistons longer than 86mm stroke, higher or lower comperssion, class specific pistons etc.

Your Basket Your basket is empty. Added to Basket. Advanced Search. Conversion Parts 8v Redblock Ford 2. Home Engine Pistons B performance piston set.

B performance piston set. Standard piston options Required -- Please Select -- Naturally aspirated 86mm stroke Naturally aspirated 80mm stroke Turbo 86mm stroke Turbo 80mm stroke. Add to Basket. Our Na piston is 9. Our Turbo pison is 8. All pistons are made to order and can take upto 6 weeks.

Customer Reviews This product hasn't been reviewed yet. Write a review. Write Review Name. Review Title.Toggle navigation Oz Volvo Forums.

yoshifab turbo

Categories Threads Register Sign In. April in General.

Volvo redblock engine build

Hey guys, What's the recipe? For bench racing's sake, if i wanted to build a high compression naturally aspirated 16v motor bf head on a b bottom endand have it rev up to rpm, what would one be looking at in terms of parts and cost? And, as I attempt to bump the static compression ratio higher, to say, or more assuming this is a fresh fully built motorwhat would I be looking at and what should I be taking into consideration April Costs will vary, depending if somebody's having a "wife told me to get rid of it" sale or you have to buy bits new.

Basic Shopping List - The Yoshifab timing belt tensioner kit - the best kevlar timing belt which Yoshifab sells - set of CP pistons and JVAB rods like these, with reliefs cut into the pistons - one extra B cam wheel for putting on the b aux shaft - a B timing gear crank pulley - a plug for the distributor hole in the back of the 16V head, plus a plug retainer plate - set of new lifters which resist high RPM pump-up - improved valve springs, e.

The M is a high volume pump like the BFT pumps. Choice of ignition system? EZK systems using wasted spark on LH 2. Choice of EFI system? IF LH 2. Thanks for that bgpzfmvery comprehensive. Spac Spac Canberra-ish. April edited April There's a lot of difference between: 1. Will rev to 8,rpm; 2. Will rev to 8,rpm regularly and reliably; 3. Redblocks are big lumps of things.

I would also suggest that the counterbalanced B block could be the better choice for long term durability. Bob has covered most of it, but if you are aiming for Option 3, I would also add that you would almost certainly want ITBs, a good aftermarket ECU and custom extractors. James jamesinc Oz Volvo Ice Fortress.

Peter peterwgpa. Cant complain about that for a comprehensive answer. Grip is what kills the As bob and Nathan have covered, the need to rev to 8k is literally useless in the real world. Mike's price range is accurate. Budget for 3k just in an ecu, wiring and tuning if you can't do it yourself. If you wanted a budget build, a b with pistons and rods to get yourwhich means e85 only running, would be out of the question.

Keep in mind the fuel range of e85 also. And given you'd be paying for the assembly, balancing, machining, etc etc, it's easily a 10k job. You'd make maybe kws at the wheels. A turbo swap on the b would easily do that for 2k on stock lh 2. Pretty much, a squirter block is likely to not have worn bores, so you can just do a re ring and new bearings, with a block deck and hone of the bores, plus you get a head so you end up with 9.

And the need for a turbo cam is there. Plus the cost of a decent turbo-a td05 20g or gt30 sized turbo is about right.While we love spotless race car builds or thorough restoration projects as much as anyone, we also have a great deal of respect for all the low budget, grassroots car builds happening across the world. Josh owns a shop called Yoshifab, and this Volvo is just one of the many crazy projects he has going on.

One of his custom-built Volvo motors powered this Datsun Z that was posted last year. Under the hood Josh began with a BFT block from the junkyard before adding one of his signature valve head swaps. He then added an Ebay-sourced 57 trim turbo along with a Yoshifab intake manifold, an Evo 8 intercooler and a host of other one-off modifications. The result is an impressive horsepower and ft lbs to the rear wheels. As you can see, the junkyard theme spreads to the interior as well.

The transmission is Ford T5 with a custom dual diaphragm clutch. Suspension-wise, the car is running shortened struts with inserts from a Saab The four-piston brakes come from an RX-7 and the wheels were sourced from a Pontiac Firebird of all things.

I wonder how many different OEM factory parts can be found on this build? At the dragstrip the Volvo lays down consistent ETs of Not bad for a nearly 30 year old brick. One last note. Josh proudly states that he has not washed the car once since he bought it four years ago. If you have a cool car or build story that you think is worthy of being featured on Speedhunters, drop us a line at featurethis dev. Please make sure to include your name and location, as well as some basic details and specs, along with at least photographs.

Photos should be no less than pixels wide. More Reader Rides on Speedhunters.In this page I have outlined some cool mods I have done to my s and others that have been provided by other enthusiasts. A Trammel Bar can be very accurate and it's easy to build using scrap parts and its very easy and quick to use without needing a helper.

The main bar I used was an old u-channel aluminum extruded curtain rod part. It's very stiff, so it doesn't flex much at all. Total length is 60 inches.

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Plus I used a couple pieces of sheet metal and a metal ruler, all riveted together as shown below. I generally find a line in the tire tread or you can scribe or draw one with a marker while spinning the tire and use that to measure.

With the car on the ground, I measure the track width at those marks. One measurement on the tread facing forward and one measurement on the tread facing rearward.

Place the tool on the floor with the end pieces upright, pointing at the sky. For a measurement at the front of the tires, place the bar on the floor with the LEFT upright piece against the LEFT tire tread align an edge on the upright with your drawn mark or a part of the tread. Pull the tool out, turn it around, and do the same thing at the back side of the tread. Compare the two measurements. Here are some similarly designed Trammel Bars in use. Even if you still plan to visit an alignment shop, a tool like this will get you set up just right after replacing a rack or other front end parts and then you can verify your work at the alignment shop.

A customer sent me some pics of his modified instrument cluster, so I thought I would share. I'm adding this here because I get a fair number of emails from owners who have melting taillights. If this is you, then I'm suggesting you have the wrong bulbs installed in your car. For example, many taillights require a small 5 or 10 watt bulb Osram or for the rear running lights it's the one in the top row, far right.

But many owners will go to their local auto parts store and just buy what fits, often a common bulb because it has the same base and fits. The problem is that an bulb will typically put out 26 watts. That's a LOT of extra heat and that will be why your taillights are melting. I did this recently in my When in good working order, the original belt-driven clutch fan in your can handle most cooling needs.

But if you have been thinking that your needs an electric primary cooling fan, here is a page I put together on my experiences with a number of electric fan conversions over the years, from small 14 inch GM fans to big Ford or Lincoln fans. Plus a variety of wiring diagrams are included for building your own relay fan control systems if you like.

Painting Taillamps. Stepper Idle Air Control Project. Yoshifab Catch Can breather box Installation. Here are some images of these oil pipes. So it appears neither was the standard. Thread Pitch Information. It's a common thread size for many factory and aftermarket oil filter adapters that may be found for a large number of cars, typically Ford, Lincoln and Mercury.

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If you're shopping for a new filter adapter or thermostatic plate and need to know if it fits a Volvo oil filter, you may need to know the diameter of the stock Volvo oil filter o-ring. It's 2. If you find an adapter that's 2. There are lots of custom parts and kits on line, but it's hard to know what you can trust and what you can know will fit.

Here's such a kit with the thermostat plate, oil cooler and assembled oil hoses that was installed by a Volvo Turbo owner and it seems to work nicely. A better solution that I will eventually change to is racing style AN fittings and high-performance hose, however it's a much more expensive solution.

Electric Power Assist Steering.As you'll see below, I opted to NOT use the drain port on this fitting. And a good video below. This bulkhead fitting pictured would be a good option. This would also eliminate the need for a check valve, so things would be much simpler except for having to pull the oil pan to drill a hole. Venting through Block Fuel Pump Opening. Yoshifab Catch Can Installation. This page covers the installation of my new Yoshifab breather box catch can in my Turbo during the Summer of As you read this you should know I don't always follow directions and I have been known to ignore "sound" advice.

This install continues with that philosophy.

yoshifab turbo

The top and side ports are all AN Male thread. The bottom oil drain port is -8 AN Male thread. This fitting has two ports.

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The drain port on the left side has a -8 AN Male fitting. The vent port on the right side has a AN Male fitting. If you're not aware, the Volvo engine block has a long plastic tube inside that extends from that drain port down into the oil sump. The bottom of that tube is submerged in the oil.

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Having this drain extended below the oil level ensures that this pipe drains freely and does not get any interference from crankcase pressures. So basically this system is designed so that when an external catch can is installed, the bottom of the can is to be placed somewhere reasonably close to and above the level of this drain port.

This is not always convenient in a Volvo due to tight space, although there are people who have done it that way with good success. This is what I used, since my drain is on the other side of the engine.I wanted to modify. It was not fast enough. But this car was my daily driver, so as many of you know, there are limits to the kinds of mods you can do to a car that needs to get you to work in the morning.

Then a friend talked me into buying this BMW ti Alpina. It was complete with box fender flares pig cheeksracing suspension, roll-cage and 2 liter racing motor with dual Weber 45 DCOE carbs. This car was a handful. It had a 4. By when I bought the Turbo, I had already been a customer of iPd for a number of years. They were the best often the only source around for Volvo performance improvement parts.

So mods started getting done slowly as I could manage. How do YOU feel about the ?

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I guess ad writers and engineers didn't talk to each other much. We still love the I've been a fan of these cars since way before I ever owned one. They were too expensive for me when they were new, so I had to buy one later.

If you have an affection for theread Chris Driver's blog linked below. I think you'll share a similar opinion. I'm a Volvo hobbyist. I've been playing with Volvos mostly s since My pages here are an attempt to share my experiences with other Volvo hobbyists and to chronicle the knowledge and information I have gathered over the years so it may be passed on to others.

I've owned 10 Volvos since So I thought I'd list some of them below A white DL. I bought it in Non-sunroof car, roll-up windows, auto trans, marginal AC, ok gas mileage. Already being an avid iPd customer, it soon got their anti-sway bars, sport springs and Bilstein HD shocks, as well and a few other fun goodies.

I bought the back half of a Turbo exhaust and installed it from the cat-back. That was a really nice improvement. It originally came with 14 inch steels wheels with beauty rings and hubcaps. I installed the 15 inch alloy wheels from my '88 I drove this car everywhere for 6 years and put overmiles on it.

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In I gave it to my daughter when she got her drivers license. Unfortunately it was destroyed a few months later when some nit-wit pulled out directly in front of her in a Chevy Caprice. She couldn't avoid the Caprice and hit it broadside at 50 plus mph. More info HERE continued.

I bought this black Turbo from the 3rd owner, who bought it in The original paint and leather interior was in rare exceptional condition because the car was always garaged and still is. It's very important for an old car like this to live indoors if you want it to stay nice for this many years. This car was a rare find and it is a great ca r t o drive.

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